Hotel Review: Mashpi Lodge, Ecuador.
Overview
Mashpi Lodge first came onto my radar by watching the BBC TV programme, Amazing Hotels - Life Beyond the Lobby. As soon as I saw it, I knew instantly I had to visit. It’s taken some time to get this organised (Mashpi was featured in episode 2 of season 1 - first aired April 2017) but now we’ve been it did not disappoint at all. If you haven’t seen the programme, try and watch it on download or I think it’s also available on You Tube. Giles (Coren) and Monica (Galetti) work at Mashpi Lodge in the Andean Cloud Forest of Ecuador and really get behind the history of the area and delve into all aspects of the ecological principles of the lodge and it’s owner, the ex-major of Quito, Roque Sevilla.
Hotel website: https://www.mashpilodge.com
Would I stay here again? Yes I absolutely would in a heartbeat, but it is such a unique experience that it’s maybe just something really special you do once in a lifetime. If you have two nights you can fit everything in easily if you’re prepared to be on the go most of the time, if you can stay for three you can take things at a more leisurely place - I’m so glad we stayed for three and got some decent time in the lodge itself - great to be there when most guests have gone off on hikes or activities.
Location
Mashpi is located only 60 miles from Quito in a direct line, but takes about 3 and a half hours to transfer. We were staying at the sister property in Quito, Casa Gangotena, and this is the final pick up point. The road is scenic, probably only the last hour (and particularly half hour once you’re inside the lodge gates) is a bit rough going. On the transfer we drive past the foothills of the volcano and stop in the archaeological site Tulipe for a comfort break.
Throughout the drive, we have a definite change in the atmosphere - leaving Quito at about 9,300 feet above sea level down to only 2,900 feet or 900 metres above sea level at the lodge. It is much more humid and the temperature rises to about 25-28 degrees Celsius (a temperate climate) - it’s not tropical at lodge (more sub-tropical) but very high humidity - close to 100%. We left Quito in brilliant sunshine but really quite close to the lodge itself the rain and mist starts, but it only makes it all the more different and atmospheric. Throughout the drive we drive cross the equator from the Southern Hemisphere to the Northern Hemisphere which is an experience in itself - never imagined there would be shops etc. here!
On our return journey back to Quito, leaving the lodge at 11:30am we’re advised that there will be a stop for lunch - this was unexpected (and included within the rate) as we hadn’t really thought what we would do for food, expecting to eat once we arrived back at the wonderful Casa Gangotena. About 2.5 hours into the journey, having just crossed the equator again, we stop at the incredible Santana Bewing Company for lunch - will write more about this in my blog, but was a great experience - wonderful food, beer and the staff were incredibly nice and welcoming. We stopped there for about an hour, arriving after the final hour’s drive to Quito at around 4pm.
Accommodation
Cannot say enough positive things here. The lodge has 20 Wayra (meaning wind) rooms with only 3 Yaku (meaning water) suites - 46 square meters (almost 500 square feet) with an incredible large bedroom area with panoramic floor to ceiling glass wall, with an equally incredible bathroom.
We were lucky enough to have booked one of the three suites, all of which are located on the middle floor of the hotel. As soon as you enter, to the aroma of mint (the hotel only uses natural cleaning products), and the electronic blind is raised to reveal the majestic view over the cloud forest, you could be mistaken for thinking the hotel had only just opened. Everything was immaculate, beautifully designed and with every amenity you could possibly want. The bed was huge and very comfortable, there was also a sofa, chair and a writing desk, ample wardrobe and drawer space and there was that view - what can I say! The bathroom had double sinks (which I love), a massive walk in shower, separate WC and a huge soaking tub right (which I’m sure looked as if it was just new) up at the window - I don’t often have a bath in hotels but I had to here because it was so spectacular. Although definitely an eco lodge, there was ample (paraben free) toiletries and every other amenity you could require supplied, including waffle bathrobes and Mashpi Lodge slippers.
I don’t think there would be a bad room anywhere, the suites clearly give you amazing views and an exceptional amount of space, two of them are mirror images of each other (#12 and #14 - no room 13 for luck I assume) and #11 is at the end of the building so has glass at both ends rather than on one large wall as with the other suites. I’m sure #11 would be amazing too, but beware the bathroom does look out into the main area of the hotel so doesn’t have any privacy without the blind down. Our suite view just opened onto the cloud forest and offered complete privacy (other than from the odd bird passing the floor to ceiling windows).
Food & Drink
There is one main restaurant serving all meals, included within your rate, including the transport from/to a choice of four hotels in Quito. Breakfast and lunch were buffet style, providing a great choice of food, all presented beautifully and all of the highest quality. We were asked to provide dietary requirements on booking, and within a few minutes of arriving in the restaurant for lunch on our first day, an attentive server was there to check in with us and confirm our preferences. The restaurant spans two levels of the hotel, with double height glass walls on two sides - absolutely amazing. There is also a bar to the side with some separate casual style seating and a small covered terrace with seating for smoking - the lodge is completely non-smoking inside.
Dinner was served a la carte, with several choices for starter, main course and dessert. This was followed by a choice of tea/coffee and all soft drinks throughout the day are included too. Food was exceptional, not least considering the remote location, as was service - warm, friendly and exceptionally helpful. The bar adjacent to the restaurant served the most amazing cocktail choice, with a happy hour between 6:30 and 7:30pm each evening. It’s not a big criticism but it seemed as if there was a complete disconnect with dietary preferences and dinner - while at lunch everyone was aware of these, at dinner there was sometimes not a vegetarian starter on the menu, and I was served a duck amuse bouche which was then replaced with a mushroom one (one of my exceptions) when I advised I was vegetarian. As I say, not a big thing but maybe dinner staff just needed to connect with lunch staff for preferences, though it did seem to be the same servers. If you didn’t want a big meal in the evening there was an alternative sandwich choice menu.
Facilities & Service
From the pickup at Casa Gangotena to arrival at the lodge, nothing could be faulted - the minibus was very comfortable and only the last 30-60 minutes was really bumpy. There was lots of commentary during the ride, maybe a bit too much but this was probably because everything was done in both Spanish and English. We were welcomed at the lodge, given an initial briefing then taken straight to lunch. There is so much to do around the lodge activity wise, everything from a short hour’s walk to expert long hikes if that’s what you want to do. The cloud forest surrounds the lodge and the views are exceptional - from every vantage point of the lodge building itself, the bedrooms and suites and from different viewing platforms. The lodge has so much space, it could easily have accommodated probably twice the amount of bedrooms but I’m so glad they didn’t do that.
There is such a choice of other activities too - the Dragonfly, sky bikes, visiting the observation tower, a spa within the lodge offering massage and beauty treatments, a jacuzzi and yoga deck a few minutes walk away (book in advance for the hot tub), hummingbirds area, Life Centre with the butterflies and so much more. I’m going to write a more detailed blog post which will be on my website shortly to talk more about activities. Can’t help but commentate Fernando our guide.
Cannot recommend this lodge highly enough. While we were given a full briefing on arrival about facilities, timings etc. and friendly staff always on hand to answer queries, I might have liked some more information in the room. As an example, we had to ask at reception about booking massage and they provided a book with all the choices. It might have been better to have things like this in the room, and a recap of what the lodge has an offer - maybe I’m just an information geek! This didn’t detract from the overall experience however, to surmise all I can say is WOW! You would definitely need to stay overnight in Quito beforehand and probably after too if you use the Mashpi transport - it’s not cheap but Casa Gangotena is so worth it and for us topped and tailed an amazing rainforest experience.
ThePrivateTraveller’s top tips (any areas for improvement?):
It’s not often I summarise like this but I can’t suggest anything here.
ThePrivateTraveller’s absolute highlights:
So much to add here - just everything about the experiences at both Mashpi and Casa Gangotena in Quito.
Useful website links:
Mashpi Lodge https://www.mashpilodge.com
Casa Gangotena, Quito https://www.casagangotena.com
Relais & Chateaux https://www.relaischateaux.com/gb/
National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World https://www.nationalgeographiclodges.com
Santana Brewing Company, Quito https://www.santanabrewing.com
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