The address is Leith, but this is just a stone’s throw from the St. James Quarter at the top of Leith Walk, and only a minute or two from one of the Edinburgh tram stops, which runs between Edinburgh Airport and Newhaven, past Leith and Ocean Terminal. Staying near the airport itself, we jumped on the tram which whisked us into the centre of Edinburgh without the hassle of having to park. With a quick pit stop at Tesco Metro nearby (more on this later), we were in this hidden gem of a restaurant that we might so easily have passed by.

Discover Flavourful Dishes in Edinburgh’s Vibrant Leith Walk, with BYOB

Leith Walk in Edinburgh has undergone a significant transformation, evolving into a vibrant hub where modern eateries and stylish developments seamlessly blend with the area’s rich cultural heritage, reflecting a wave of urban renewal. Many years ago, other than probably Valvona & Crolla (which was established in Elm Row of Leith Walk back in 1934, and opened a Caffe Bar in 1996; Leith Walk would not have been on our radar for dining options. Certainly with the introduction of the tram line going right down the middle of it (albeit causing a lot of disruption as you will read below), has helped change this long street and recently we have visited quite a few boutique interesting restaurants and had some great dining experiences here. Cilantro (another word for the coriander plant) has now been clearly added to that list.

The Private Traveller’s Restaurant Review

Ambiance and Dining Experience

There are just seats for 20 diners here, across a mix of tables for 2 and 4. It’s a small space but nicely and simply designed, with all the tables at the front, some in the window area out to Leith Walk, a bar area and the kitchen at the back. Service was quick and attentive, but clearly the focus here is on the food, from both a quality and value for money perspective.

Extensive Menu and Delectable Choices

As a long-time vegetarian (‘Mrs’ TPT isn’t, so it’s always a good dining comparison when reviewing restaurants so we can both try out different menu options) I love seeing a menu where there is an extensive vegetarian selection, and Cilantro definitely excelled here. As well as the selection of both vegetarian starters (all options were marked as either containing gluten, nuts, dairy; or suitable for vegans), there were Tandoori, Balti, and Biryani dishes alongside Cilantro’s spice classics & specialities, then a whole array of both vegetarian and vegan options. Add to that sides, rice dishes, breads, raitha, poppadoms & chutney; I’m sure there is something here for everyone.

Highlights from Our Meal:

• While Perusing the Menu: Plain poppadoms & mango chutney.

• Starters: I opted for the Sabzi Pakora (deep fried balls of gram flour with mixed vegetables and a spicy sauce), while ‘Mrs’ TPT chose the Chicken Pakora (sliced breast of chicken coated  in a traditional spiced batter).

• Mains: I picked the Cilantro Bhindi Masala (a semi-dry curry made with okra, herbs, onions, tomatoes & fresh cilantro) for me and the Butter Chicken (chicken tikka in yoghurt & ground herbs) for him.

• Sides: We shared a pilau rice and a plain naan between us.

Portions were a really good size, deliciously prepared made-to-order and served piping hot. With starters around £8-10, and mains from £13-22, this was also I felt exceptional value for such quality.

BYOB (Bring Your Own…)

Cilantro does not have an alcohol licence, but it’s so easy to take any drinks of your choice with a small corkage charge applied. There is a Sainsbury’s directly opposite and a Tesco Metro just a few metres up the road, so very easy to buy wine, beer, or in my case a couple of pink gin & tonics en route.

The Private Traveller’s View

I had wanted to visit earlier in the year at the time of the Scran Awards, but hadn’t been able to. As a vegetarian, and a lover of spicy foods, I always like to try out new (Indian) restaurants among others, and Cilantro more than lived up to expectations. It’s unassuming from the outside, and of course from my explanation of Leith Walk above, might not be on a tourist’s go-to list of Edinburgh destinations, but I would highly, highly recommend this if you’re a lover of Bangladeshi and Indian food .

Visit Cilantro

You can find Cilantro at 4 Albert Place, Leith Walk, EH7 5HN. It's open seven days a week, from 4pm until late (closing times vary so best to check online). It’s easy to book a table online, or you can also order take away too through WhatTheFork.  With it being such a small restaurant, I would definitely book in advance. When we visited, there was a queue of people waiting to dine as we entered, and again on leaving. For more details, visit their website at Cilantro Restaurant.

The Scotsman Scran Awards

Held in June 2024, featuring 18 categories, under the category of Hidden Gem (Edinburgh, Fife & East), Cilantro was a finalist alongside another restaurant I recently featured (and actually won the award) which was The Radhuni. You can find that review here. To be a finalist as one of only three was still great acclaim for Cilantro.

Authentic Review by The Private Traveller

The Private Traveller was a guest of Cilantro, and was facilitated by Julia Thornton of Hotel PR. All views and opinions however are totally independent; I’d rather say nothing at all than something I didn’t believe in..