Hotel Review: Zaborin Ryokan, Niseko, Japan.

---

Overview

I cannot explain how amazing this place is - I’d seen it before and thought it looked absolutely amazing (and it was in reality) but finding that this was an option for the Train Suite Shiki-Shima overnight hotel stay meant the choice was made. Depending on your suite category onboard the train, you can select one of three hotels in the area for an overnight stay - I think now though, depending on availability, all train guests can opt for Zaborin, though it does cost extra. You can check out my posts on Instagram of Zaborin and there is an IGTV video too.

Designed by the renowned architect nA Nakayama in 2016, this Ryokan only features 15 suites yet has the most incredible amount of space both in the minimalist concrete building, internal courtyards and gardens. As I think is common in many ryokan, there is a communal foot bath, sometimes hidden away but Zaborin explain that this is “hidden in full view of the central courtyard”. A word of advice - this is not the iron fountain in the entrance courtyard in case anyone thinks it might be! There is a large central garden courtyard between the circular bedroom wing - here there is a covered foot bath which you can reach through a ramp from one of the doors leading off the hallway (slippers and towels are provided from a F&M (Fortnum and Mason) basket.

Hotel website: https://zaborin.com/en/

Would I stay here again?   Yes, yes, yes! The pictures look incredible in winter, so would probably want to come back then. The hotel said it can get some extreme snow, particularly in February, as amazing as the hotel looks now, it would be an amazing winter destination too.

---

Location

Zaborin is located in the Niseko area of the island of Hokkaido, just under 100km (about 60 miles) from Sapporo (would take less than a two-hour drive). Coming as part of the Train Suite Shiki-Shima 4-day trip (two nights on the train and one at Zaborin in the middle) we were driven from Datemombetsu train station, this took about two hours to get to Zaborin but included a 15 minute stop at the scenic lookout point for Lake Toya. On our return, it took about 90 minutes (no stop) to go back to Toya station to rejoin the train.

Zaborin is located in a Hanazano wood facing Mount NIseko-Annupuri - the grounds are absolutely stunning and the fresh mountain air so refreshing. Coming to Japan in summer as we arrive in Tokyo, we realize that with Japan being such a long country (north to south) the seasons are not in sync. As we travel north from Tokyo on the Train Suite Shiki-Shima we realize that on Hokkaido island they are seeing the very first signs of Autumn and it’s significantly cooler than Tokyo (on Honshu, the main island of Japan).

---

Accommodation

Each suite features a large hallway, complete with low cupboards with every conceivable size of slipper for use while inside. To the left is a small pantry kitchen, as you walk through the hall to the left is the living area (complete with mini-bar, Apple TV and comfortable sofas - and the most incredible view from the wide terrace). From the living area there is a large bedroom area to one side (also with the incredible views) and the most wardrobe space I think I’ve seen in any hotel). The bed was gigantic, exceptionally comfortably with super-soft pillows (a nice relief from the Tempur style firm pillow on the Train Suite Shiki-Shima). To the other side of the living space is a tatami room - sunken seating in the middle of tatami mats, but I think this could also be configured as an additional futon sleeping area as (in yet more wardrobes) there were copious amounts of duvets and pillows. From this room there is a large low glass window onto one of two internal courtyards. While these courtyards views allow in light to the back of the suite, with the panoramic view from the front of the suite you spend most of your looking in awe there.

There is also a small WC off the hallway - this has the gold standard Toto Washlet automatic toilet. As you enter, the lights come on automatically, as does the toilet open its lid, lights up the bowl and gives a refreshing spray before use. There is every conceivable button for cleaning etc. and it automatically detects when you are finished and flushes/sanitizes automatically. As with everything in Zaborin, even the hand wash sink is incredible - copper piping push button sink with an ornate metal overlay.

If the rest of the hotel and bedroom suite isn’t wow enough, the bathroom definitely is - there is grey slate everywhere and wooden sliding doors; another WC (and yes fully automatic like the guest WC); dual sinks in the main bathroom area. There is everything you could possibly need, lots of storage by the sides of the mirror and underneath too - just stunning design and everything kept in its place. Through the main bathroom area a glass door leads to the inside onsen. The suite has two natural hot-spring fed baths, a slightly larger grey slated one inside and a wooden one on the large deck. You access the deck from doors in the bathroom area, bedroom and living space - most of the doors slide open and there are internal bug slides in each of the opening windows. There is also a massive overhead shower and huge pump dispensers of local organic toiletries - shampoo, conditioner and body wash.

While the suite does not have air-conditioning (other than the natural breeze from the mountains) there are fans provided and a heated floor (and additional heaters) for winter. The terrace, again finished in grey slate, has views to die for - you can see the landscape and the mountains and sky behind constantly change the view while sitting in the hot onsen.

---

Food & Drink

As is traditional in a Ryokan, dinner is served at a fixed time, usually early - at Zaborin the elaborate nine course meal is served at 6pm. The restaurant is split into lots of different room areas, for both dinner and breakfast we had one for two people overlooking the pond at the front of the hotel (illuminated at night). I can’t elaborate enough on how well designed every aspect of this building is - these dining areas are no different, from the antique-style furniture, cutlery, lighting, glassware etc. - just exceptional.

While the traditional meal is normally set, all of our dietary requirements have been passed to Zaborin from the Shiki-Shima, mine being vegetarian without eating mushrooms or tofu. The menus has been adjusted accordingly, mine being all vegetables and just amazingly presented. I don’t normally take photographs of food, nor post them on Instagram, but here I couldn’t help but photograph every course as each was visually stunning. The meal however is a bit of a marathon and while absolutely amazing to look at, is so very different for a Western palate.

---

Facilities & Service

Skiing is available in winter, so the Ryokan can organize transport - one side of the entrance (the reception is on the first floor serviced by lift or the most incredibly designed wooden staircase) looks like a large ski locker room area. On the other side is the restaurant - this is a collection of individual rooms, some with views across the lake and gardens, a tatami mat room with sunken seats, a chef’s view counter table and a barbecue room in the middle of a courtyard pond (complete with miniature frogs). 

The hotel (sorry Ryokan) does not have a gym or swimming pool which is probably why it’s categorized as four star rather than what should be five star deluxe, but does have incredible seating areas throughout, even in the corridors. There is a bar with a panoramic mountain view, a traditional tea ceremony room, library and a beautiful seating area next to the main reception with a stunning log fire.

There are some display cabinets selling a limited amount of locally sourced products. Above the traditional Japanese barbecue room(this structure combining both is another creative masterpiece) there is a massage room - different types of massage can be organized in advance for two people at a time.

---

ThePrivateTraveller’s top tips (any areas for improvement?)

• The traditional dinner was fantastic, but (with a western palate) not something I would want over multiple nights. Was amazing to get the western option breakfast, a western-style dinner option too would be wonderful.

ThePrivateTraveller’s absolute highlights:

• Design (just incredible)

• Location (stunning views everywhere you look)

• Suites and the bathroom (just wow)

---

Useful website links:

• Japan Airlines https://www.jal.co.jp/en/

• Zaborin Ryokan https://zaborin.com/

• Train Suite Shiki-Shima https://www.jreast.co.jp/shiki-shima/en/

• Architect nA Nakayama na http://www.nanana.co.jp/

• Zaborin Project https://archello.com/project/zaborin

• Fortnum & Mason Est. 1707 https://www.fortnumandmason.com/

• Toyako Visitor Centre http://www.toyako-vc.jp/en/

---