The Private Traveller

View Original

Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne: A Comprehensive Guide to Staying at this Luxury Swiss Mountain Spa.

Welcome to my review of the Bürgenstock (Heritage) Hotel at the Bürgenstock Resort; a stunning 5-star hotel located overlooking Lake Lucerne. The location was stunning, the many hotel dining options excellent and the accommodation itself was exceptional.

I decided to visit the Bürgenstock Resort, booked through Leading Hotels of the World, as it had been on my radar for such a long time. Seeing the images of the resort before I visited, some of them look unreal, but I can assure you from being there it is an actual reality. The location is stunning, and it’s just such a wonderful resort in an undoubtedly spectacular location.

In this review of the Bürgenstock Resort, I’ll detail my experience of the location, local activities, the best restaurants and of course, the accommodation and facilities at the hotel itself. Read below to find out everything you need to know before your next trip to Bürgenstock or Lucerne.


Burgenstock Resort Switzerland



Fast Facts for The Bürgenstock Resort in Switzerland

Address - Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne, CH-6363 Obbürgen, Switzerland
Website - https://burgenstockresort.com/en
TripAdvisor ranking - #1/3 (Obbuergen)
Contact - information@burgenstockresort.com
Nearest airport - Zurich International (ZRH) 84 km or 52 miles (about a 90 min drive)
Opened - 1873 (of the original Grand Hotel) refurbished/redeveloped 2017
Number of rooms / suites - 211 total (135 rooms, 76 suites)
Number of floors - 10 (Contemporary building), 8 (Heritage)
Bars - 2 (Lakeview Bar & Cigar Lounge; Verbena Bar Waldhotel)
Restaurants - 8 (Paris, Spices, Verbena, Oak, Ritzcoffier, Lakeview, Osteria Alpina, Taverne 1879)
Wellbeing - 2 full-service spas (Alpine, Walhotel plus private Alpine spa suites), golf, wellness therapies and fitness classes, yoga, hair salon, tennis, ice rink
Visited - August 2023


Burgenstock Resort Contemporary Hotel


Hotel Accommodation: Alpine Luxury across two different building styles

I booked through Leading Hotels of the World, with all the extra benefits that can bring like a free upgrade subject to availability, complimentary breakfast and wifi etc. and I also realised early on that the Bürgenstock Hotel & Alpine Spa (probably why it’s part of LHW) was the better rated property. There was the choice of the Contemporary or Heritage wing, I went for the Heritage, which was the former Palace Hotel. In terms of choice of rooms or suites in the Contemporary building, there was everything from entry-level Deluxe rooms to Lake View Bay Suites, Premium Suites to Panorama, Penthouse and Royal Suites too. There was a simpler choice in the Heritage part of the hotel and also the Waldhotel which is facing in the other direction.



Facilities & Service at The Bürgenstock Resort

As well as all the restaurants, bars, two spas (the Alpine in the Bürgenstock Hotel itself also having quite a number of private spa suites for that ultimate experience), there is also so much else to do on site too like mountain biking, golf, tennis and ice rink in the incredible Diamond Domes, a full service gym in both spas, an one site cinema and of course lots of history to engage with about this fascinating resort.

I’ve broken down the key facilities and services and shared my opinion on them below:

Rooms/suites

Within the Heritage building (formerly known as The Palace Hotel) the accommodations (rooms and suites) are over 5 floors. My room (2215) was on the second level facing the Lake. The hotel has the corridor in the middle, so rooms either face the lakeside or mountain side. Having booked through Leading Hotels of the World, I was able to get a one category upgrade meaning mine was a Heritage Lake View Deluxe Room. With two (walk out) balconies (one with a table and chairs) the view was just spectacular, out over the lake and to Lucerne and its neighbours in the background.

In the entrance, there were mirror-fronted wardrobes with drawers and hanging space, like everything in the room, hotel and resort all so beautifully designed and clearly an extraordinary expense invested here. Although this was a solo trip, ‘Mrs’ TPT would have liked the fact that there looked like a brand new iron and ironing board already there, without having to ask. This also contained the room digital safe, a box for having your shoes polished, umbrella and a few options of flip flops.

There was a large desk area with the most supremely comfortable leather and steel office chair, lots of options for charging devices, a selection of fresh fruits and dates, phone and hotel information - I love it when a hotel still provides writing paper and envelopes and postcards. Although I’m ‘digital’ for most things, I do still send a physical postcard to myself whenever I go anywhere new in the world, and the hotel left three postcards in the room (two vintage style).

The main part of the room had a massive bed at one end (super comfortable) and with a full choice of different pillow types, bedside drawer units and where (every night) you’d be left a little box of chocolates and a bookmark celebrating the hotel’s 150th anniversary. In front of this there was a two-seater sofa, comfortable armchair and coffee table, where you were always left mineral water and a few goodies throughout my stay like a bottle of red wine (LHW profile does say sparkling wine only) and a beautiful present of a credit card holder. There was a huge LCD TV on the wall and a refreshment centre with coffee maker, kettle and min-bar with all complimentary soft drinks, beer and more mineral water (replenished daily).

I had such a good sleep here as not only was it so quiet, I guess also the mountain Alpine air, but with electronic shutters that covered both floor to ceiling doors at the touch of a button, the room was so dark overnight. There was really good air conditioning too, especially necessary as the time I was there, weather warnings pronounced extreme (high) temperatures. 

Levels of Comfort

Absolutely perfect - the room was so quiet, beautifully designed and always pristine with a twice-daily cleaning service. Despite the age of the building from the outside, once inside (and the Heritage wing is accessed only from the main resort through connected walkways) so it all feels like one building, once you enter the elevators from the ‘Walk through history’ corridor you would have no idea that this wasn’t a new build. All the rooms and suites have been extensively refurbished in the style of the Contemporary wing and spa, like the huge square recessed rainfall showers of which there must be literally hundreds throughout.

Bathroom

Although not the biggest bathroom, like everything else so beautifully designed with a mix of textured dark walls, black ceramic tiles, white sanitary ware and a nice mix of wood consistent throughout the room itself. One sink, though ‘trough’ style so it would have done two people, didn’t really matter as normally I like a his’n’his sink; but it was just me this time. There were lots of Acqua di Parma toiletries (Arancia di Capri) toiletries (shampoo, shower gel, soap, conditioner and body lotion) on the vanity area, along with a whole array of other things like toothbrush, nail file, cotton pads etc. and another set of shampoo/conditioner/shower gel in the enclosed rainfall shower area. The WC was separate in another (opaque) glass cube.

Breakfast

Breakfast (served daily in the Spices restaurant, from 7am until 10:30am) was amazing, not least the view from the restaurant overlooking the lake). There was always a choice of two styles (Bürgenstock Classic or Vitality). Both came on a tiered display with a selection of breads and pastries (the Vitality version was all spelt) and fresh fruits; but with a regional charcuterie and cheese selection with salted swiss butter on the Classic and bircher muesli, avocado, and hummus with crudités on the Vitality version.

You would then add to this hot and cold drinks (a great selection of freshly pressed juices) and a massive selection of hot foods to order, some way healthier than others. Service was excellent and the views from this glass sided restaurant were just exceptional.

Restaurant & Bars

There were so many to choose from, and with me being there for 3 nights only I had to whittle the choice down. I was so pleased with every selection I’d made, it would be really hard for me to pick which was the favourite - they would all be, for different reasons like their locations, ambience, food choices etc. What was consistent however was the quality of food, drinks and service. Read more further about the specifics of Verbena, Parisa and Spices; the ones I had chosen.

Design & Architecture

I read that when the resort reopened in 2017 (after a 9 year) refurbishment programme it had cost CHF 550m (about £500m, €575m or $625m) - a tremendous amount of money but equally you can see where it has been invested. The design and architecture throughout is incredible, not least from where it is located which can’t have been the easiest to build onto, which so sympathetically incorporates the history. The Alpine Spa (the larger and more prestigious in the Bürgenstock Hotel, though the more medical Waldhotel Spa is exceptional too) is apparently 10,000sq m (about 110,000sq ft) and is undoubtedly the most impressive I have seen anywhere in the world.


What about the Lucerne Switzerland location?

Getting to the resort wasn’t quite planes, trains and automobiles, but add into that both a catamaran and funicular. My journey was a plane to Zurich airport, the train direct into Lucerne on the Swiss rail system (one of the best in the world, and probably only rivalled by Japan for efficiency), then the hotel’s catamaran across the lake, to then take the final step in the journey on the hotel’s incredible funicular. 

I could (as I did on the return) get a car to take me between the airport and resort directly, but to go there I really wanted to experience all of the different aspects and I would highly recommend this route to everyone at least one. The catamaran takes just about 25 minutes to get across the lake, so operates each way every hour, 7 minutes past the hour from the Lucerne side (and the dock is located so close to the main train station for convenience) and then 37 minutes past the hour from the resort side. The funicular operates both ways every half hour too, to connect with either passengers coming off the catamaran or wanting to get on it.

Some of the top activities I’d recommend doing at The Bürgenstock Resort are:

The Alpine Spa

There will be much more about this in a separate spa review, but it has to be said that this was absolutely incredible. Across three floors, it is so incredibly well designed with massive amounts of relaxation space through, along with an exceptional selection of water and heat/cold treatments. Definitely one of the most impressive spas I have ever had the luxury of visiting.

The Waldhotel Spa

This was my first spa experience there, as one of my inclusive treatments was located in that spa rather than the larger (and main) Alpine Spa. It’s exceptional too, much smaller and intimate, and more focus on more specialist medical/health treatments, but still a wonderful experience. There are indoor and outdoor spa pools, a sauna area and a salt room with an incredible alpine valley view.

Bürgenstock Funicular

Since the hotel opened in 1873 it has had a funicular to get you up from the lakeside. This has obviously been replaced over time, but I always think there is something quite magical about cable cars and funiculars in particular, especially when they are private to a hotel or house.

Bürgenstock Catamaran

This is a hotel service, but it’s not only for hotel residents, other passengers can just pay to take the trip across the lake. It departs from a really central location in Lucerne, then takes you right to the funicular for the resort; with boat times and funicular times tying in exactly for a seamless experience. There is just one service an hour (it takes just under 30 minutes to get across) so it’s literally just going back and forward all day.

It’s a really nice craft though, I think it is just about five years old with two levels, with lots of seating on both with some outside areas too. It apparently takes 300 passengers overall with two crew, seating for 218 and the rest standing. It’s very comfortable (assuming you get a seat if it’s not too busy) and there are toilets on board and two vending machines (cold and hot drinks, and snacks). If you do need to buy a ticket (i.e. not a hotel guest, for whom it’s free) there is a cash desk that cleverly comes out from the wall near the entrance.

Bürgenstock Cinema

There is a film shown on certain nights of the week, and I had planned to visit but actually ended up not having time. I quite like the fact of eating slightly later (some night dinner reservations for 8:30pm) which gave perfect timing to visit the Alpine spa which closed at 8pm. It seemed like there were different films shown each day, and one of the other reasons for my lack of interest is that it was Oppenheimer which we had just seen in the UK, and another Super Mario Bros which I didn’t really want to see. The day after, which I had also seen, was Barbie so they were definitely showing the recent blockbusters. I didn’t go to any, but I assume they were probably in English with German subtitles; I’ll need to try out on my next visit, which I hope there is one.

Cliff Walk

This in its own right is quite famous, and has a lot of history. Even if you don’t want to do the lift, you can still take the cliff walk. It was about 30 minutes to get from the hotel to the base of the lift (which I took) but if you carry on walking you will eventually get to the upper level where the lift goes to. Further on from the lift base, the walk gets more interesting as the path has obviously been cut out a lot from the cliff rock with tunnels, some lit and some quite dark for atmosphere! The views from the whole path though are stunning.

Hammetschwand Lift

The Hammetschwand Lift is apparently the highest outdoor lift in Europe. It’s only open part of the year, but the views look stunning from the top, and definitely an experience taking such a panoramic lift.

Museum Corridor

Initially I had thought from the map of the resort that this was the link corridor between the main Contemporary part of the hotel at the heritage wing, the former Palace Hotel, In fact this is what they call the ‘Walk Through History’ where there are a lot of artefacts on the walls and in the corridor showing what the resort was like, including an actual vintage wooden cable car. What I hadn’t appreciated, until I found it by accident when I had to come out of the Alpine Spa by it’s main entrance (rather than the impressive glass box link into the Contemporary Hotel) because I’d left my room card behind and therefore had to get back to the main reception to ask for a replacement. Here they’ve carved out a tunnel from the mountain and both sides of this atmospheric tunnel are lined with cabinets full of memorabilia from the original hotels and resort. The tunnel then opens up at the end facing over the look with a huge panorama window. Such a great place, and I would have missed it easily.

Walking around the Resort

I had the map of the resort in advance of coming, but I think until you’re here it’s hard to gauge the scale of it, or how things connect with one another. Like on the map where it shows you ‘The Heritage’ Hotel, this is actually the original Palace Hotel (you’ll still see references to this online, and indeed the original signage is still in place too); I had thought this would be more separate than it is. It’s actually all now connected to the Contemporary (main) wing and the link corridor has a lot of the original artifacts and walls explaining its history.

I always like to walk around resorts (to make sure I’ve not missed anything to photograph, experience, or write about) so I’d noticed there was a path in front of all the residences overlooking the lake. This then looked like it connected to the Suspension stairs. Out of the main hotel (from the reception area) I walked right which has stunning views over the grassy pastures behind the resort. Walking the the very end of the resort (almost to where there are entrance signs) I noticed a tunnel carved out the rock, which is what I’d been looking for from the map. Getting through the tunnel to the other side though (lake side) it seemed as if there was no obvious path. 

I was initially concerned that this was a dirt track to somewhere completely different, but I'm glad I tried it out as indeed it was the path I was looking for. It does go quite downhill for a period and looks like it’s heading away from the resort, but soon it does a sharp turn and later on there is signage for the Bürgenstock funicular. Follow the signs and ultimately you’ll pass in front of all the hotel residences, Alpine spa etc. and then there is a huge suspended staircase back up into the main building (I was a bit concerned my sliders would come off and disappear down the gulley!). Persevere though and it’s a good walk, it also let me see where the spectacular photos of the suspended glass box jutting out from the hotel are taken from. There is a platform you can access from the gift shop (just press the button inside to get out on the deck, and again to get back in) and from here you’re looking straight into the Spices Restaurant overhang. Good getting the reflections from the building too.

Visiting Nearby Lucerne

When I arrived by train into the Lucerne station, I went straight to the catamaran dock, albeit I missed the first service by seconds (drat that Swiss efficiency!). With having luggage, I didn’t want to go wandering around the city, but had always planned to go back again as it was another excuse to try out the funicular and catamaran again.

The first funicular of the day down from the resort is at 8:25am, and I’d recommend getting this as it was quiet - not just quiet, I was the only passenger so it meant a perfect choice of which part to sit in. This then connects with the first catamaran from the dock at 8:35am and on that there was only one other man. It gave me a good chance to look around the craft, which was obviously configured to have a two class system and a dedicated area for hotel guests, but now it just seems to be used as a single class.

I was across in Lucerne just on 9am and it’s literally a couple of minutes walk to the famous wooden, flower adorned Chapel Bridge across the river Reuss. This really seemed to be a heart of the city, and it was so good to be able to walk around that river area (both sides) and try out some of the other bridges too. Not sure if it’s just a weekend thing (I was there on a Saturday) but there was a farmer’s type market along both sides of the river selling breads, cheese, meats and fruit - despite my Covid-induced sensory demise, even I could smell the cheese!

More so on the other side of the river from where the catamaran arrives, there were lots of small cafés, bars, restaurants, shops and boutiques. Nearer the water these were more unique, then a street or two back you would find lots of international and European chain stores, then in one area you had a collection of all the designer Swiss watch brands. I was pleased to find the Läderach chocolate shop (absolutely incredible selection and taste), then I sat and had a hot chocolate and croissant in a café, before being swayed by (it seems) everyone around me having a glass of Prosecco. It wasn’t even 11am in the morning but why not! I made the comment on Instagram that had the café (Restaurant Schwanen - Café de Ville) been in St. Mark’s Square in Venice Italy the cost would probably have been more like three times the cost or more - in fact the two drinks and croissant was just €15 (about £13 or $16).

Even just being in Lucerne for a couple of hours was enough, and I was back to the resort before 12 noon. Be aware though, despite the catamaran being near empty on the way across, you do get a lot of day-trippers so it was full on the way back (7 minutes past the hour during the day, from Lucerne).


Food and Drink at The Bürgenstock Resort

This is a big resort and obviously quite a remote location so you’re not going to expect non-resort restaurants on the doorstep. That said, with the regular funicular and catamaran shuttles, it’s certainly possible to easily get into Lucerne for either lunch or dinner during your stay. There is a such a good choice and variety within the resort itself that I don’t really see why you would need to go elsewhere.

Some of my favourite restaurants I encountered over the course of the stay at Bürgenstock Resort were:

Spices Kitchen & Terrace

I had breakfast here every day (see above) and opted to have dinner here on my final night. It’s this restaurant which has the iconic suspended glass box out from the building, though other restaurants and the main bar also have panoramic views. There is just something special/unique/frightening (if you’re afraid) of heights knowing that you’re in a cantilevered box), but I loved it.

I had dinner here on my last night, thinking that it would be an exceptional finish to see the nighttime view from there. I checked in the morning with the breakfast ‘Maitre D’ and she advised she would make sure this was noted on the booking. This may well have been just a ‘lost in translation’ thing, but I had assumed this was confirming that I would be able to have a ‘glass box’ seat. When I arrived at the restaurant though, I was seated right at the back and at the side, and they said there was no such request noted to be elsewhere. I don’t quite believe them, but they said that all the seats that I was actually looking for had all been booked by March.

Verbena Restaurant & Bar

With having a spa appointment at the Waldhotel , as I have treatments already scheduled for the Waldhotel Spa. The focus here is on ‘Eat Well’ Mediterranean food, but equally there are lots of tempting dishes like pasta, risotto and gourmet pizzas, not to mention a full cheese and dessert menu.

Parisa Persian Cuisine

This menu particularly appealed, as did the views (yet again). Apparently this restaurant format has its roots in Qatar, with three similar restaurants there already, but this one is located next to the Bürgenstock Heritage with lake and mountain views.

What I hadn’t expected, but it really was exceptional, was that there were two menu choices, the Parisa Signature Menu and then a vegetarian equivalent. There were five appetisers all served with naan bread (two hot and three cold), then a soup, followed by a choice of two main courses and two desserts, including one which was the resort’s 150th anniversary special. This meal probably had to be one of my favourites, not only by the location, the service, the food and overall ambience. Just an absolutely delicious meal especially when combined with a couple of nice G&T’s and a glass or two of Moet.


Highlights of my stay

There were so many highlights of the stay at the but here are just a few of the key points, which I hope you find a useful summary.

  • Location - I love planes, trains and funiculars so choosing to get here by plane, train, catamaran and funicular - wow!

  • The funicular, has to be mentioned again, I loved it.

  • The spas - yes two (Alpine & Waldhotel) were exceptional. Especially the Alpine Spa scale - from the indoor pool and outside infinity spa pool to all the heat and cold treatments throughout. I particularly loved the naturist steam room or panoramic sauna followed by the inside cold plunge pool and the outdoor eco pool, in which natural reeds had been planted.

  • Acqua di Parma toiletries - love them, but all the toiletries in the spas were great too.

  • Attention to detail - more than once had a housekeeping supervisor just come to check all was ok with my room, which it was.

  • Restaurants - Parisa was a particular highlight, as was Verbena in the Waldhotel - such an indulgence; gin, champagne, pizza followed by a Magnum dessert.

  • Service throughout - everyone was so friendly.

  • The Hammetschwand Lift - I had been so looking forward to this and it did not disappoint. I enjoyed it so much I did the journey four times.

  • The architecture of all the different buildings - such a great mix, but the Contemporary Hotel centrepiece was just exceptional.


Areas for improvement

Wherever we stay, I do always like to look at the positives on any property we stay in, and airlines we fly with etc. but sometimes you can’t help but notice things that (for me, but I realise this is always personal) might have made for a better stay.

  • When I was trying to organise the spa appointments in advance, some which were included in a package (Rejuvenation), I had maybe expected a bit more of a consultative process to book, i.e. some help with organising and curating a treatment plan, rather than just taking bookings. Don’t get me wrong, though the Waldhotel Spa was quite slow usually to respond to emails, both the Waldhotel and Alpine Spa did make all bookings I asked for.

  • I was so disappointed that the Ice Lab treatment wasn’t going to be available, but they did let me know in advance and I was able to book an alternative. A good reason to come back in another season and try it then. I definitely want to come back.

  • When coming back up on the funicular, despite the announcement advising hotel residents to exit left, the conductor never opened the doors on that side. There were another couple of guests like myself, standing waiting for them to open, but we eventually just had to give up and follow the masses through the gift shop and back into the hotel that way. Just a bit disappointing as it should be such a preferential experience to be able to have direct access.

  • Dinner at Spices Kitchen & Terrace - the only less than friendly service I had experienced everywhere else, and so disappointing where I was seated.


Would I stay here again?

Yes definitely - I’d come back here in an instant for lots of reasons, like location, the Alpine Spa, the treatments, mountain air not to mention just a few.

Burgenstock Resort Alpine Spa


My final thoughts on The Bürgenstock Resort

My newly redesigned and refreshed website was launched the day I arrived in Lucerne (coincidence) but my visit here tied in so nicely to get me a personal experience of such an incredible Swiss Spa. It has given me such a taste and desire for visiting more locations like this in Switzerland, but also to visit more dedicated health resorts like the nearby Chenot Palace Weggis, which (I found out when having breakfast one morning) was merely 2km directly across the lake from Bürgenstock. This is a very different health resort with minimum 7-day programmes, but something I would absolutely love to experience.

Have you stayed at The Bürgenstock Resort l before? I’d love to hear your own thoughts and opinions on it as well as your impression of Lucerne and Switzerland as a holiday destination.

Comment below to share your thoughts and opinions. 

Let me know which hotel I should review next!

See this gallery in the original post